How men are mixing it up: the 'winterfication' of the summer wardrobe
Traditionally, menswear has strict seasonal boundaries: jumpers and dark hues for autumn winter, short sleeves and mankles for the summer months. But it’s a rulebook that doesn’t allow for the reality of how men wear clothes: namely that for most men, a couple of perrenials should last all year long. In this spirit, there’s been an increasing winterfication of the summer wardrobe in menswear.
“I think men are quite random about their wardrobe,” says psychologist Ros Taylor. “It’s like, they bought a hat in winter and felt they cut a dash with it, so why change a winning formula for a season change? As women, we coordinate, and buy magazines to inform us of the latest shoe combos. Men tend to wear what’s in their wardrobe.”
Witness David Beckham hitting the gym in a black vest and a beanie, Harry Styles wearing a sheepskin shirt jacket with a T-shirt, and Pharrell, who has been mixing seasonal looks for years, combining loafers with preppy jumpers and cardigans with quarter-length trousers. It’s been happening on the catwalk for a while, too.
Gucci’s Alessandro Michele is never scared of mixing summer and winter: knitted shorts, coats with sandals, shorts with wooly hats, while Prada went for the boarding school boy look – shorts with coats in its spring/summer 2016 collection.
It’s indicative of a sea change in menswear, a relaxation of what’s acceptable. “You can see it in the way men are working active wear into their day-to-day looks, whether that’s a cycling jacket with tailoring or Lycra with a parka,” says Simon Chilvers, head of menswear at Matchesfashion.
This rule-breaking new era comes as sartorial tribes are mixing things up, combining differing styles in one look: the prefix of “new” on so many trends (new lad, new preppy, new grunge) suggests just that. “As far as men go they have traditionally been less seasonally conscious than women,” adds Chilvers. There are another reasons too. As the weather in one day lurches from blue skies to bursts of rain, it pays to sartorially hedge your bets and, like Joey in Friends, wear everything at once.
John Galliano has already seen it on one of his under-the-radar trips to Los Angeles. Now the public can take in men’s fashion in all its carefully curated glory at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s “Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015,” which opens on Sunday and is on view through Aug. 21. Two hundred looks spanning 300 years have been carefully culled to highlight both the history of menswear and its ties to contemporary fashion, through an art museum’s lens, rather than a purely historical perspective.
The show is divided into five thematic sections — Revolution/Evolution, East/West, Uniformity, Body Consciousness and The Splendid Man — and 90 percent of the pieces, or about 350 total that make up the 200 looks, are drawn from LACMA’s permanent collection.
Sharon Takeda, senior curator and head of LACMA’s Costume and Textiles department, noted that many living designers ended up donating several of the requested looks, complete with runway accessories. The exhibit took five years from conception to fruition, mainly because gathering the correct pieces took so long. The other 10 percent that was borrowed took up to two years to secure.
Indeed, the list of modern and contemporary designers and houses is extensive: Alexander McQueen (pieces by the late designer and Sarah Burton); Ann Demeulemeester; Balmain; Bill Blass; Brooks Brothers; Burberry; Calvin Klein; Chanel; Christian Louboutin; Comme des Garcons; Dries Van Noten; Etro; Giorgio Armani; Gianni Versace; Givenchy (by Riccardo Tisci); Gucci (by both Tom Ford and Frida Giannini); Helmut Lang; Issey Miyake; Jean Paul Gaultier; Louis Vuitton; Franco Moschino; Ozwald Boateng; Pierre Cardin; Pucci; Ralph Lauren; Raf Simons; Roberto Cavalli; Rudi Gernreich; Thierry Mugler; Thom Browne; Vivienne Westwood; Walter Van Beirendonck; Yohji Yamamoto, and Yves Saint Laurent for Rive Gauche, to name a few.
Among those based in Los Angeles or with close ties to California are: Phillip Lim, Chrome Hearts, George Esquivel, Jeremy Scott, Libertine, Rick Owens, and Yves Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane (the latter a true historical piece now that Slimane’s departed).
Said Michael Govan, LACMA chief executive officer and Wallis Annenberg director, “We liked the counterintuitive notion of men’s ‘fashion.’ When you look at something like a Louis XIV-period piece, the investment, craft and money in these garments rivals women’s clothing.”
Govan also pointed out that each ensemble is like a sculpture in that they weren’t necessarily created for the medium of photography, but rather as three-dimensional objects that are just as fascinating from the inside out. The mannequins weren’t placed under glass so viewers could see the details in the fabrics and finish up close.
Commune’s Roman Alonso and Steven Johanknecht transformed the white gallery space into a more intimate and masculine setting that focuses the eye downward from the high ceilings toward the clothes. The rich wall colors and period-specific architectural details such as cornices drew on references from Louis XIV to Michael Graves. “I wish we’d added scent and music,” mused Alonso.
In a neat twist, the “Reigning Men” galleries connect into the “Robert Mapplethorpe: The Perfect Medium” exhibit, which allows guests to examine more male forms in art, sans the clothes.
10 classic jacket styles that will make your wardrobe work harder
Cropped, boxy, a bomber, denim or tweed – the perfect jacket is an investment worth making. And will see you through our very British, very temperamental weather in style.
Here's your need to know on the best jacket styles to add to your wardrobe.
The military jacket
Military styles don’t need to be khaki. Try a chic navy option and pair with cropped denim flares and ankle boots for day, and for evening, wear over a black slip dress with heels.
The bomber
A recent addition to the classic jacket club, the bomber has had something of a cool-girl makeover and now comes in beautiful embroidered styles, set to transform your basics . Go bold and embrace silky prints, or stick to wearable styles in neutral shades and lightweight fabrics.
So good for work. Go for a navy tailored option and team with a crisp white shirt, cropped trousers and flats. On the weekend, throw on over a plain t-shirt with slouchy trousers and trainers.
Something suede
Reboot your off-duty wardrobe with a luxe-looking suede jacket. Imagine yours over a roll neck knit with the skinniest of jeans, or thrown over a printed dress with slides in summer.
The classic tweed
Classic dressers will want to keep a cropped tweed jacket to hand at all times. Avoid anything pastel and stick to a palette of black, grey, navy and white for real staying power. Wear with lightweight knits and silky shirts.
The biker
Your weekend hero, the biker is an essential jacket for any savvy dresser. Choose – and invest – wisely and transform every item in your off-duty wardrobe in an instant. Simplicity, along with practicality is key. Look for buttery soft leather and wear-with-everything tones.
The sleeveless option
The perfect piece for layering, stick to neutral shades and classic fabrics when investing in sleeveless jacket styles. Head to J Crew for workwear options, and H&M for lighter, fluid fabrics.
The embroidered jacket
You don’t have to go boho to appreciate the impact of a beautiful embroidered jacket. Choose oversized shapes and embrace bold shades to get your look right.
The do-it-all denim jacket
It’s the hardest working cover-up in our wardrobe, the humble denim jacket will always be a much-loved piece and only gets better with age. Frame Denim has your slim-fit styles, or head to Topshop, whose purse-friendly options look every bit as cool and won’t blow the budget.
The belted jacket
Plain or patterned, ensure your armed with a belted jacket for the ultimate evening cover-up. Try something light and floral for an instant outfit when teamed with jeans, or keep things paired back in something block colour.
She put the one-piece back on the agenda this summer — by way of a high leg, ultra-low sides and back lines, creating a throwback to her original '80s design.
But then Merrilee Madrigal is no stranger to creating a buzz with her swimsuits.
Madrigal is the founder of the family-owned Merrilee's Swimwear — a Laguna Beach-based swimsuit design house and retail store known for suits with cheeky cutouts, reversible bottoms and colorful patterns.
For nearly 40 years, Madrigal has cultivated a loyal fan base among local beachgoers for her Bohemian and modern swimsuit designs, though she maintains that creating effortless and chic classics will always win over following current trends.
"A lot of this stuff is back again," Madrigal said recently at her Laguna Beach headquarters as she looked at a halter top on a back room table.
As if to emphasize that she would rather be a leader than a follower in the fashion world, Madrigal said, "I think a lot of trends are born here."
The tie-dye prints, paisley motifs and strappy bandeaus at the Pacific Coast Highway store are a nod to Madrigal's hippie flower days in Huntington Beach, when she was sewing bathing suits for friends and family while in high school.
Word spread among local beachgoers about Madrigal's hand-sewn bikinis. To keep up with consumer demand, her mother allowed her to stay home one day a week from school to sew suits, but under the condition that she continue earning good grades.
The deal worked, and each weekend Madrigal would sell the swimwear out of a leather suitcase in front of the now-defunct Golden Bear nightclub. The iconic Huntington Beach venue had hosted famous acts from the 1960s through the '80s, including Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix and the Grateful Dead.
In April 1977, Madrigal opened her first bikini store — on Main Street, within Sunline Surfboards. Jack's Surf Shop purchased the property a few years later and moved her business across the street into what was then Jose's Shoe Shop.
Shortly after, she was overseeing her own manufacturing facility, selling swimwear in shops across the U.S. and in Japan, with wholesale accounts like Pacific Sunwear, Wet Seal and Nordstrom. The company expanded with more retail locations and Madrigal selling to specialty boutiques and department stores.
In 1986, Madrigal opened the brand's 5,000-square-foot location in Laguna Beach, where the corporate office, stockroom, photography studio and manufacturing are now also located. The current Huntington Beach retail store is at The Strand, across the street from the Shorebreak Hotel. These two are her only retail locations in Orange County.
Over the years, Madrigal decided to scale back and return to her love of designing swimwear and selling the clothing directly to consumers. Her children help her operate the business. Daughter Felicia designs and manages the majority of operations, and her son, Robert, supervises the computerized and technical aspects of the company.
"The real reason we are successful is because customers know they can get a quality swimsuit," Felicia said. "My mom is a big stickler for quality, and she won't put something out on the floor if she isn't happy with it."
Together, mother and daughter look to European fashion forecasts and seek out what designs will work for the Southern California beach community. They also hire young girls from local schools to give their feedback on storyboards, and they pull from their library of swimwear designs to put a spin on classic cuts.
For example, the Halter-Kini Top was an original style from the '90s, but the look was updated with a crochet top piece and made to be reversible. The design was redone to appeal to swimmers who wanted to avoid sunburning their chests or show off the latest fashion in swimwear.
The Sash Halter has remained a best-seller since it was pulled from previous collections. The cut was redesigned with a twist: Sash ties, like those around the neck, were added to the back to provide more comfort and support. The bikini top's cinch sliders also allow a wearer to adjust the height of the triangle or go for a more traditional halter look.
And if a customer is interested in a special order, she may pick a style and fabric from the company library without having to pay extra.
It's a prolific time for the company — 10,000 swimsuits are handmade a year by three to 15 sewing machine operators at any given time. Many of the employees, Madrigal said, have worked for her for years, some for more than 20.
The family is already planning to put another swimwear collection together, increase the company's online presence and, perhaps, return to the wholesale market.
But no matter the trend or pattern that might reemerge in a collection, Madrigal said her priority is to ensure that customers know that they can find a selection of original and fashion-forward designs at her stores.
"I can spot a bikini worn on the beach and tell you the exact style number and what year it is from," Felicia said with a laugh.
"It's cool to see that we're setting trends and that the third generation is coming in," Madrigal said. "We're keeping those old faithfuls going."
Best gifts for Mother's Day: From a BOSS Bespoke bag to a Vera Wang bouquet
A barrage of sentimental gush is imminent: in case you had forgotten, Mother's Day is this Sunday. Somewhere beneath the heaps of mass-produced cards (some 30 million sent every year in the UK) lies a genuine attempt at honouring the sacrifices mothers make for us unruly offspring. For that you can thank Anna Jarvis, who conceived the day as a means of personal celebration between families in 1908.
Fast forward a century or so, and it's become more about spending money than spending time. While there's plenty wrong with that development, a bunch of petrol-station carnations isn't quite as convincing a thank-you for multiple hours of labour as, say, this limited edition BOSS Bespoke bag (1 - see gallery below). Designed by Mobama-endorsed Jason Wu, the "Intarsia" is the perfect spring addition to any wardrobe, above all your mum's; mainly because you get to borrow it afterwards. I bet Malia has her eye on it already.
For the more traditional (or forgetful), flowers are a sure bet. But, still, eschew the forecourt floristry. Take a cue from Mother of Pear which yielded Victoriana florals for its spring/summer collection and opt for a bunch that offers a more stylish experience, such as this premium bouquet from Interflora and Vera Wang.
Equally, while perfume is not entirely groundbreaking gifting, the launch of Sarah Burton's first fragrance for Alexander McQueen is. It not only smells exquisite but is guaranteed to appeal to those with an affinity for shiny objects; its facetted cap and antiqued gold feathers are a must for any magpie mother.
While, traditionally, Mother's Day serves to recognise those that go above and beyond with a showering of gifts, there are those of us that see fit to lower the tone entirely. Whether it's an inside joke or your mum really is a bit of a battleaxe (in a rose-garden), why not acknowledge Mommie Dearest with a copy of the cult classic movie. Disclaimer: a sense of humour is compulsory.
Kate Winslet 'is NOT pregnant but was simply letting Cate Blanchett and Brie Larson feel the material of her dress when they touched her tummy at the Oscars'
The rumour mill went into overdrive on Sunday night when Cate Blanchett and Brie Larson were pictured excitedly touching Kate Winslet's tummy at the Oscars.
After social media users speculated that she could be expecting her fourth child, a slightly more simple explanation for the exchange has since emerged.
A source close to the actress told TMZ that 'the star is NOT pregnant but was actually letting her friends feel the beautiful fabric of the dress.'
The set of the candid snaps, taken at the major movie event, featured Kate, 40, Cate, 46, and Brie , 26, excitedly chatting to one another. In the pictures, the trio of Oscar nominees are seen standing in a circle, smiling and talking.
In the first of the series of shots, Kate has her hand on the waist of a rapt-looking Brie, her mouth open as she tells the Room actress something.
In the next shot, Carol star Cate's eyes get wide with surprise, as she seems to be full of excitement over whatever it was that Kate had just said.
She then leans in to place a hand on Kate's stomach, resting it at the top of her abdomen. Finally, Brie gives Kate an enthusiastic hug.
The sweet set of images were immediately seized upon by beady-eyed social media users, with some internet sleuths speculating that Kate may have told the other stars that she is pregnant and expecting a fourth child.
'Did Kate Winslet just tell Cate Blanchett and Brie Larson that she's pregnant or am I just looking into it too much?' tweeted @SouDamnTrue after the show last night, while sharing the set of images from the awards ceremony.
Titanic star Kate already has a 15-year-old daughter with ex-husband Jim Threapleton, whom she divorced in 2001, Mia Honey Threapleton, a 12-year-old son with her second ex-husband, director Sam Mendes, Joe Alfie Winslet Mendes, and a two-year-old son, Bear Blaze Winslet with her current husband Ned Rocknroll.
Kate and Ned, who are extremely private, are reported to have tied the knot in New York in December 2012, in an intimate ceremony among their nearest and dearest.
Kate's super-shiny Ralph Lauren gown threatened to reveal every last bump — but Kate also looked quite svelte on the red carpet.
Fans also speculated that she may have been remarking on how slim Kate looked, comforting her stomach ache, or feeling the high-shine fabric - which TMZ's source claims was in fact the case.
But while the reason for the sudden outburst of excitement between the star, who was nominated for Best Supporting Actress for her role in Steve Jobs but lost out to Alicia Vikander, and her friends is not known, there is no doubt that it was an emotional and unbelievably happy night for Kate on every level.
The actress watched on with a joyous expression as her former co-star and long-time friend Leonardo DiCaprio won his first Oscar, scooping the Best Actor award for his role in The Revenant.
As Leo gave his acceptance speech, during which he took the opportunity to share a warning about global warming, the cameras panned to the audience to show a visibly-emotional, and very teary-eyed, Kate, who appears to have attended the ceremony without her husband, sitting with her hands clasped together in front of her face.
Daily Mail Online has reached out to Kate Winslet's team for comment.
1. Bottega's sparkly coats. Embroidered with gold and then embroidered over that with sequins, they glittered down the runway like the world's most tasteful disco balls.
2. Two pairs of perfect boots. Gianvito Rossi’s military-inspired black leather boots were an exercise in sexy restraint, while Bally’s gold python boots were an exercise in sexy kitsch, thanks to their kitten heels and bubble-gum pink laces and toes. (The inspiration: “Anita Pallenberg in a John Waters film,” according to design director Pablo Coppola).
3. Missoni wins. There was a bulldog on the runway, nestled sweetly at the feet of the very handsome Missoni heirs. There was a swinging fringe dress, fun socks with sneakers, and drapey print-on-print outfits. And after the show, as per tradition, they served the entire fashion world dinner. All told, Missoni was a great time.
4. Marni's visual gold mine. In a landscape packed with Instagram bait, Marni’s sunglasses collaboration with Marchon gave us some of the best, wildest eye candy of the whole season. The invitation to the event promised that emotions would “flow freely in a poetic Total Theatre tale of colors and shapes,” though that didn’t even come close to describing the joy this event provoked in us. Zoolander 2 would have been a lot more funny if it had included any scene quite so over-the-top.
5. Dolce & Gabbana lived happily ever after. The fairy-tale backdrop (Cinderella’s gilded carriage, a glitzy pumpkin for photo ops) set the stage for a finale fit for any Disney princess: an entire lineup of models wearing Cinderella shoes and shimmery silver, pink, and red dresses made entirely of paillettes.
he 2000’s were a funny time for fashion, and the Oscars red carpet was no exception. From a seemingly covered in foil Nicole Kidman to a bare-bellied Tara Reid, choosing the best 2000s Oscars dress was not an easy task. That is, until I landed upon a picture of a young Charlize Theron in an orange halter gown at the annual festivities.
While most of the crowd at the 2000s Oscars carted around tulle shawls and adorned sequins aplenty, Charlize Theron’s burnt orange Vera Wang gown seemed ahead of its time with its understated elegance. While Theron’s gown definitely made a statement, it was orange after all, it was the fit of the gown that won me over. Unlike most evening gowns, Theron’s Vera Wang halter was seamed down the front to accentuate her statuesque frame, and then, to make matters even better, it was backless. While I have to admit, I am a sucker for a backless dress, this might be the backless dress of all backless dresses. Yes, I do believe it trumps Hilary Swank's 2005 Oscars gown. Not only is it low cut like Swank's gown, but just after the dress begins again, it extends into an elegant train, need I say more?
Theron has been known for many a great red carpet moments, but I have to say this might just be my favorite look of hers ever. Not only does the dress fit her perfectly, but the color compliments her gorgeous green eyes just as well. If you love her dress just as much as me, scroll down to get a better look at what is arguably the best dress of the 2000’s Oscars.
From the front, Theron's dress is a simple halter gown that reveals a little bit of décolletage. In truth, the most notable thing about this dress at first glance is its beautiful burnt orange color. However, the back of the dress is much more sexy. The super low scoop back ends in ruched cascading train that gives just enough drama to be an Oscar worthy dress.
To finish off her gorgeous outfit, Theron opted for a peach pout and structured brows. To top off this beauty look she styled her golden locks in '20s inspired pin curls.
While it is hard to go wrong with a Vera Wang gown, Theron didn't just go right, she hit it out of the park with this sexy number. But then again, when doesn't she? Theron might be one of my favorite celebs to watch on the red carpet because she isn't afraid to take a risk — she is always down for a deep plunge or high slit. While she has quite a few memorable dresses that top my list, I have to say this Vera Wang dress is my all time favorite.
Gucci’s return to a logo area as monogram features extensively
It seems Beyoncé in her electrifying Formation video is not the only one looking at throwback Gucci for ideas. The retro GG monogram, customised for her leggings and crop tops, anchors Alessandro Michele’s latest collection for Gucci. Barely visible since the logo mania of the 1980s, the monogram was painted graffiti style on the backs of leather aviator jackets and printed on swishy skirts. Retro Gucci graphics came thick and fast printed on suits and skirts, while the famous signature red and green stripe trimmed blousons and bag straps and boldly emblazoned a white suit and cross body bag.
There were hints that Michele was going old school in 2015, when he added the monogram to his Dionysius handbag and buckle belts, but now the logo is appearing everywhere.
The colourful new collection opening Milan Fashion Week was a mash-up of 1940s meets ’70s silhouettes, with prim veiled pillbox hats over a long tulle gown, and Studio 54 shiny sequin dresses and pantsuits. It felt sexier than his previous outings although not in a louche way. There were fewer geeky glasses and a more decadent attitude filtered through in the shiny trouser suits and satin dresses. Michele is proving himself as deft with colour as Yves Saint Laurent was.
Mr. Porter held its five-year anniversary event at the Saville Club, a private gentlemen’s club. Retired bartenders from the Savoy served up martinis (both shaken and stirred). There was a caviar bar, Cuban cigars — and a room full of handsome, well-dressed men. The perfect reprieve from weeks of women’s fashion.
2. Molly Goddard had one of the most inventive presentations of the week.
Last season, the designer recreated a sandwich factory. This season, inspired by the idea of old couture shows, Goddard cast models from the street and from Facebook, and arranged them around a multilevel set. They sat in her signature voluminous dresses, watching old couture salon videos on YouTube.
3. Alexander McQueen finally came home.
For the first time in 15 years — and for the first time since the founder’s death — the brand brought its show from Paris back to London. Sarah Burton presented a whimsical, dreamy collection with tons of influences thrown in: punk, boudoir — even a beaded dress with a unicorn.
4. Mulberry got new blood.
Johnny Coca, the brand’s new creative director, debuted a standout collection for the British house this week — its first major runway show in more than two years. Out with the sweet, countryside Mulberry girl of the past, in with the tough Londoner with a punk edge.
5. Burberry tested its new business model.
Burberry made waves a few weeks ago when it announced that its next show, in Sept. 2016, would be see-now-buy-now. As a leadup to that, the brand put its entire fall/winter 2016 collection in its Regent Street shop, where customers are able to see the new clothes and place orders, immediately following the show. Based on the strong collection of oversize outerwear and beaded Mod dresses that Christopher Bailey put forward on Monday, people will surely be storming the gates for it.
One of the most romantic shows of the week was Simone Rocha, where the designer’s show notes suggested a sense of unraveling — which translated to rich, beautiful fabrics with frayed edges, oversize silhouettes and excess fabric swaddled around the models like an emotional gesture. Christopher Kane, too, featured slits in fur jackets, feather details and piled-on jewels that seemed undone. And at Joseph, Louise Trotter featured a gray turtleneck sweater and skirt with yarn strings still hanging from the sleeves.
7. Queen Elizabeth’s presence was felt.
Countless designers — including Simone Rocha, Erdem, Peter Pilotto and Ashley Williams — seemed to reference the royal jewels, with a strong showing of sparkling earrings and necklaces. And at Alexander McQueen, piled-on barrettes added some extra sparkle.
8. There’s a new crop of minimalists in London.
A handful of amazingly talented designers are making a strong case for understated dressing — and serving as a powerful counterpoint to the city’s experimental sensibility. Some of the best of the week were Margaret Howell, Paula Gerbase of 1205 and the newcomer Fran Stringer, who debuted her first collection for Pringle of Scotland. They showed well-tailored trousers, knits — and, of course, white button-down shirts.
9. Jonathan Anderson showed one of his best collections yet.
But what made the J.W. Anderson show extra-special were the details: zipper-lined tunics, cropped, flared pants and studded leather skirts. And, since the designer constructed a thin, maze-like runway, audience members were treated to an very close view of the clothes. And, after such a good show, one must celebrate: the brand threw an after party at the ACE Shoreditch, in collaboration with i-D Magazine.
10. The Central Saint Martin’s grad show reminded us what’s so great about this city.
It breeds and fosters new talent unlike any other. This season’s graduate show was filled with new exciting ideas for women’s wear, men’s wear and textile design. Some standout names to watch: Michael Halpern, Henriette Tilanus, Alexander Krantz and John Alexander Skelton. Here’s to the next generation.
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